"Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind." Anthony Bourdain
Adventure, Camping, Hiking, Holidays, Nature, Travel
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About this guild

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”  H. Jackson Brown Jnr






Here, high up in the Himalayas, almost touching Everest Base Camp things turned very grave indeed.

My breathing had been difficult and I was coughing blood  but I kept going until lunchtime  yesterday when an anti-altitude sickness pill left me so drowsy that I couldn’t walk at all.  

There are no cars, no roads and none of the usual forms of transport in these treacherous mountains, supplies are carried on the backs of porters on yaks and donkeys, so It was decided a horse was needed to take me the last couple of hours to Lombuche. 

It was hoped a rest would fix things before making the final few hours trek to Everest Base Camp at sunrise the. 

Trying to hold on to the makeshift saddle while ascending a steep rocky mountainside was a feat in itself but descending the steep drops with a reluctant mule was pretty hair- raising! It certainly helped keep me awake. 

The terrain was hostile, freezing cold and the wind fierce. 

Felix travelled up on foot with Jangbu. 

Once off the horse I realised I was in trouble. 

I couldn’t walk or see properly and the slightest exertion - getting my wallet out to pay the young boy who had led the horse, took an inordinate amount of time and effort.

I was met by the wonderfully reassuring Bimba whose face was furrowed with concern as this small, delirious Englishwoman stumbled into her guest house. 

She was capable and knowledgable and had me fully clothed, into bed in no time.

Ram the porter looked pretty alarmed to see me in such a state but Felix and Jangbu were not far behind and I believed with rest I would be ok. 

At this point the worst scenario would be Felix making the last short trek to Base Camp and both of us going down together. 

I can’t remember exactly what happened next except Felix tells me I became unstable and was hallucinating. 

The hardest part for me was believing my Beautiful Girl India was still alive only to be told that she wasn’t and I was simply delirious. 

It was like being stabbed through the heart all over again. 

My oxygen levels were checked and at 51 declared dangerous. 

I was placed on oxygen but each time I moved it worsened. 

A rescue helicopter was summoned but it was too dark and dangerous to fly. 

I was still coughing blood and in and out of consciousness and I could see from Felix’s face she was scared. 

There was no chance of her trekking to base camp and me waiting for her, shaking heads and grave faces told us the situation was critical. 

Jangbu somehow managed to organise that the helicopter would pick Felix up and take her to base camp to put our prayer flags up and leave our precious Kyle and India ladybugs painted by Kyle’s mum Tanya at the highest, most unforgiving mountain in the world. 

We hoped for an simple descent. 

But my condition worsened as my Oxygen levels dropped to 33 so I was given a slow, low dose throughout the night in the hope they could keep me alive until it was light enough for the rescue to take place. 

It was a long and scary night in that shack only moments from base camp - I wasn’t sure I would  make it. 

I knew my life was in danger. 

Light dawned and the whirling racket outside signalled the arrival of the helicopter, they scooped Felix up to EBC and within 10 minutes I was being carried on the Porter’s back to await my own rescue. Oxygen tank being carried by our beautiful, kind Bimba - a mountain Goddess in the flesh. 

It was a spectacular flight back through the mountains we had so arduously trekked and while still unwell I was able to breathe unaided. 

Landing at Lukla,  all flights to Kathmandu were cancelled but it was imperative to get me to hospital in the capital so another helicopter was commanded. 

That I can write this tells you I am on the mend - I couldn’t have done so last night. 

Felix and I have had an incredible journey through these hostile mountain ranges and there is so much more to tell. 

I can not think of a better companion than she and the way she has handled herself throughout the trek but especially during the rescue will forever stay in my heart. 

There is no need to worry now, we made it.

There is only one cure for Altitude sickness and that is to go down. 

We are halfway there. 

An ambulance will meet me off the flight and whisk me to hospital for a check up and we will soon be back in the comfort of our hotel - like nothing ever happened. 

No doubt Felix will give her own version of how things came about.

We have have laughed and cried but most importantly we are grown. 


We just heard that Ben Fogle’s team have also been in trouble at EBC with the Olympian Victoria Pendleton having to be brought down after a night on Oxygen. Altitude sickness is cruel, terrifying and indiscriminate attack on adventurers. 

I am sure she is disappointed- I am just grateful to be alive. 



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